Behind the Scenes – Snorkeling Belize
Salty spray blows through my hair and mists my face. I’m occasionally doused by a wave breaking over the sidewall of the boat as we motor out of the main channel and into the open Caribbean. It’s a 36-mile boat ride from Hopkins, Belize, to Long Caye on Glover’s Reef Atoll.![]()
The forecast for my week on this thirteen-and-a-half-acre patch of sand is mostly rain. But I’m coming from the frozen north, so I don’t care. I brought books, journals, my camera, and an artist-in-residence application – plenty to while away the tropical days.
The first night, Sunday, I slept fitfully. It was like a monsoon out there! The wind rattling the thatched roof, the rustling of the palm fronds overhead in the gale, and the crashing surf all made for a loud night.

The wind and rain continued through Thursday morning, with the rain coming mostly after dark. While the winds kept me out of the water, it was quite comfortable for exploring the surprising diversity of life on Long Caye.
The palapa has everything I need – a comfortable bed, a side table, a bench, clothing rods, a couple of deck chairs, and a hammock – and none of the other stuff that gets between me and nature – lights, wifi, cell service, schedules.
On the northeast edge of the key, sits the kitchen cabin and gathering spot. Three times daily, delicious meals are crafted in the kitchen and served buffet-style. Our guide blows a conch shell to call everyone in for meals. There’s no shortage of food. And beer, juice, water, and snacks are always available. It’s open 24/7. (There are no interlopers here!) It’s perfect for days spent adventuring on the water, but not so good for my waistline when lazing around waiting for calm seas.
The daily schedule, tides, and sunrise/sunset times are updated on a marker board in the galley. The weather forecast has been a study in the ways to describe rain and seas.
Precipitation: rainy, showers, periods of rain, isolated thunderstorms, a few showers
Seas: moderate, rough, choppy, light chop, slight

The guest cabins sit along the east and southeast shorelines. Each with a dramatic ocean view. Staff housing is on the center of the Caye, along with a dive shop, gift shop, and office.
The western half of the Caye is all nature!
There is a generator for the kitchen to provide backup power to essential appliances. Solar panels consistently meet everyone else’s needs. There are two shower houses and a bank of sinks fed by rainwater. Composting toilets and urinals comfortably meet other personal care needs.
Thursday, the weather broke. Calm seas, cloudless skies. I snorkeled the afternoon away. On Friday and Saturday, I snorkeled twice a day. There were eleven guests during my stay; four were repeat visitors. Some of them sea kayaked, went scuba diving, and tried their skill at kayak surfing (which is apparently unbelievably harder than it looks); one did none of these things. She read, relaxed, and enjoyed the tropical days.
I was free to participate, or not, to my own desire. Sea Kayaking in the wind? No, thanks. Kayak surfing in big waves? No thanks. Snorkeling? Yes! Every time.

My trip was in January, when it’s not uncommon to have wind and/or rain. February and March are known for sunny skies and calm seas. My three previous blogs related to this trip described tidepooling at night, exploring the nature of Long Caye and snorkeling Glover’s Reef Atoll.

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