KUALA LUMPUR, May 1 — Since Jamun opened its second location in Bangsar, I have been slowly eating my way through its vast menu. 

Their glossy menu will tempt you to dive into their selection of North and South Indian food. 

Diners here are usually families, flooding the place in big groups for a communal meal. 

Some visit the nearby temple, decked in their finery for a special occasion, seeking a more comfortable dining environment with air conditioning, and Jamun fits the bill in this area. 

For an introduction to what’s on offer, try their banana leaf rice set featuring South Indian food for RM11.90 which is available from 11am until 5pm. 

Add protein in the form of Chicken 65 which uses boneless chicken (left). Fried Bitter Gourd is cut thinly for crisps with  the crunchy bite (right) . — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

The spread includes three types of vegetables, your choice of rice (plain or Indian), various curries including crab curry, two pieces of pappadum, pickles, curd chili and rasam. 

So far, from what I have tried, they have cooked vegetables with different textures, such as deep-fried snake gourd, potatoes cooked with eggplant, and stir fried vegetables with okra, or carrot and green bean poriyal.

Apparently the crab curry is a favourite with many but I do find it has a strong taste of curry powder, which may not suit everyone’s palate.  

You can order dishes from an add-on menu with smaller portions to bulk up your set meal, like Chicken 65 for RM11.90 or Fried Bitter Gourd for RM6.90. 

For the Chicken 65, there are no pesky bones to deal with since they use boneless chicken. 

Prawn Varuval from the ‘à la carte’ menu features juicy prawns paired with a mildly spicy tomato sauce. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

What’s good about this version is that each small piece is still juicy, probably from a yogurt marinade, but I find the crust not crispy enough.  

Fried bitter gourd resembles thinly sliced, spiced chips that are nice to crunch on. 

However, because it’s prepped ahead, the texture varies, ranging from crunchy to a softer bite. 

Korma Mutton has a rich, creamy taste paired with fork tender pieces of mutton. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

For larger groups, the main menu offers bigger portions, ideal for sharing.

For instance, the Prawn Varuval on the à la carte menu costs RM30.90, compared with RM19.90 on the add-on menu, which offers a smaller portion.

The prawns are big and juicy and pair well with the tomato-based sauce that surprisingly isn’t too spicy.

Since they cover both types of Indian dishes, adventurous eaters can mix and match tandoori chicken or a rich Mutton Korma (RM30.90) with their banana leaf rice meal.  

Northern Indian set meals, featuring a choice of protein like this Keema Mutter, can be ordered for lunch. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

The highly recommended korma dish hits the spot with a rich, creamy decadence and fork tender pieces of mutton.

Even the North Indian food has a set menu for lunch, running from 11am to 5pm. 

Pick from Butter Chicken, Tandoori Chicken, Mutton Rogan Josh or Keema Mutter, priced from RM22.90 to RM26.90.

Going vegetarian after prayers at the temple? There are also meat-free options, including Paneer Tikka Masala and Palak Paneer,

The set is served with either plain naan or plain basmati rice, dhal, crackers, a refreshing cucumber carrot salad and a vegetable of the day.  

Snack on this Crispy Paper Ghee Dosa with the amazing tomato chutney. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Other naan types can also be ordered for an additional charge.

Keema Mutter Set (RM26.90) is packed with minced meat cooked with peas, which you scoop up with their fluffy naan. 

Tiffin menu covers lighter bites suited for tea time from 3pm to 7pm. 

Do order the Crispy Paper Ghee Dosa (RM8.90) for that enticing combination of crispy dosa dipped in their tomato chutney. 

Most places usually serve it with just coconut chutney but this version beautifully uses tomatoes tempered with spices for a slightly sweeter flavour. 

Poori Masala is a fun way to eat puffy deep fried bread with potato masala. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

It’s that kind of chutney, I would happily buy a bottle of to eat with everything. 

Poori Masala (RM6.90 for two pieces) is one of those items that forever fascinates me: how it puffs up in hot oil to look like a small pillow with a crisp exterior and airy insides. 

This version is classically paired with a rather substantial potato masala made from boiled potatoes cooked in spices. 

And remember to end a meal here with their Masala Tea made with fresh cow’s milk; it’s fragrant with spices and contains much-needed caffeine to keep you awake afterward. 

The fully air-conditioned eatery offers a comfortable dining space (left). Find the eatery at the corner of Lucky Garden (right). — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Jamun Restaurant

1, Persiaran Ara Kiri, 

Lucky Garden, Bangsar, 

Kuala Lumpur.

Open: 11am to 11pm. Closed on the second and fourth Monday of each month. The next date they will be closed is May 11. 

Tel: 012-9115957

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.

PETALING JAYA, April 29 — Back in 2019 when I wrote about Kampung Chicken Wantan stall I did not think it would become the cult favourite of so many. 

The reason for this stall’s popularity is the milky broth made from chicken carcasses and pork bones. 

Together with poached kampung chicken, smooth hor fun and plump wontons, you get a winning bowl. 

That same pork bone broth is also the base for their new fish head noodles stall, Moon Fish Head Kitchen. 

It’s cleverly converted into three flavours to suit everyone’s taste buds. 

Fresh Dragon Garoupa (RM22) uses the same pork bone broth with just a touch of wine to create a comforting taste when paired with the thick-cut dragon garoupa fish.

A generous clutch of fresh coriander and strips of ginger also add to the overall flavour.

Silky smooth rice noodles, whether thin or thick, make for the ultimate slurp experience with that broth and flaky fish. 

The milky Deep Fried MaYau noodles is topped with added fish paste and the fried fish is served separately. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

For a richer taste and stronger flavour, try the Deep Fried MaYau (RM16). 

Enjoy it plain for a cleaner taste or add evaporated milk to the broth for a creamier, richer flavour.

Slices of ham choy, tomatoes, ginger, and chopped spring onions also balance the milky broth, which has a bit of rice wine added for sweetness. 

Usually, I tend to avoid deep-fried fish because it often results in a dry, thick crust with very little meat to enjoy.  

Thankfully, this place serves the fried fish separately allowing you to enjoy its fried goodness in tip top condition. 

Each piece of deep-fried fish is executed perfectly here. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

It was such a pleasure to slowly relish each perfectly cooked piece of the lightly floured fried fish, savouring the sweetness from the fine flesh,

For a punchier flavour, dip it with the mild chilli sauce fragrant with belacan.

The stall also offers Fish Paste Noodle (RM13) but I added five pieces of fish paste for RM8 to my bowl to try it out. 

Their fish paste is the softer type, likely containing few fillers, making it good for those who dislike bones or skin in their food.

Spicy Four Finger Threadfin with thick rice noodles has a mellow heat. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Cold, rainy days call for their Spicy Four Finger Threadfin (RM16) which hums with a mellow heat that warms you up.

Using threadfin fish, the fried fish has a slightly firmer texture and is as good as the mayau fish. 

Since the two stalls are side by side, you can order at the Kampung Chicken Wantan till. 

Moon Fish Head Kitchen is right next to the Kampung Chicken Wantan stall inside Section 17’s Restoran Goodview Kopitiam. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Moon Fish Head Kitchen @ Restoran Goodview Kopitiam

1091, Jalan 17/27, 

Section 17, Petaling Jaya.

Open: 7am to 2pm. Closed alternate Mondays for the month, the next closing date is May 11.

Tel: 016-9272628

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.

KUALA LUMPUR, April 27 — For fans of all things Peranakan, this will be a dream come true: “Nyonya Kaseh: Sulam & Santapan” will not only celebrate the heritage-rich cuisine but also spotlight the beautiful embroidered kebaya favoured by the Nyonyas. 

Organised by Peranakan chef and cookbook author Debbie Teoh, this will be a unique event as Radjaart Kebaya (IG: @radjaartkebaya) from Indonesia will be bringing their exquisite designs and expertise to create made-to-order kebayas.  

Kebaya, adorned with intricate embroidery, is usually paired with a matching sarong. 

In 2024, through a joint effort by Malaysia, Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore and Thailand, kebaya was inscribed as an intangible cultural heritage by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco). 

For the Nyonyas, the kebaya is a symbol of elegance which they proudly wear for social events. 

Teoh, an avid fan of Radjaart Kebaya, owns 10 pieces with embroidery that celebrate things she loves most, including her cats. 

Nyonya ladies consider the ‘kebaya’ and ‘sarong’ to be symbols of elegance and their rich heritage—Picture courtesy of Debbie Teoh.

Jojo Gouw from Radjaart Kebaya has a knack for creating delicate, brightly colorued embroidered kebayas that stand out without feeling garish. 

Because the kebayas are custom-made, Raajaart Kebaya will be on hand to take the measurements of those who want to place their orders. 

A small selection of ready-made kebayas and sarongs can also be purchased at the event. 

For dinner, expect Melaka-style Nyonya popiah featuring handmade egg skin with a yam bean filling and Melaka-style Nyonya Laksa among the many delicious dishes that evening.

Teoh, whose mother is from Melaka, is skilled at making Melaka-style Nyonya dishes for her catering business and many of these will be served.

One of Debbie Teoh’s signature offerings is the ‘kuih seri muka’ with its soft, fragrant pandan custard and glutinous rice—Picture by Choo Choy May

There will also be an assortment of sweet and savoury handmade kuih, another specialty of Teoh’s. 

Her signature kuih like seri muka with its creamy pandan custard paired with glutinous rice and kuih angku, which features soft skin and mung bean paste, will also be available.  

Limited seats are available at RM388 per person. So contact 012-220 0537 to make reservations now; full payment is required to secure your seats.

‘Kuih angku’ is another of Teoh’s signature items with its soft skin combined with mung bean paste—Picture by Choo Choy May

Nyonya Kaseh: Sulam & Santapan 

Intermark KL,  

348, Jalan Tun Razak, 

Kuala Lumpur.

Date: May 16 (Saturday) from 7.30pm onwards

KUALA LUMPUR, April 27 — Crispy skin like a prawn cracker makes this roast pork stand out. That’s not all. 

There’s crystal char siu with a thin grilled crust and tender meat. Even their roast chicken with its brown skin is juicy and appetising. 

That’s what you get at this roadside shack that opened in Kepong last year.

The master behind these superb roasted meats is a chef known as “Gao Lao Wah,” a nod towards his stature since the nickname literally translates to “tall guy”. 

On the eatery’s wall, his story recounts a life spent learning the craft of roast meats at Tai Thong Restaurant and even a stint with Ah Soon Kor (Wong Ling Soon), regarded as one of the great Chinese masters who once operated Chef Rasa Sayang Restaurant in Imbi. 

Schooled in the art of siu mei (roast meats), he upholds his mentors’ call to use the freshest ingredients to create good roast meats. 

The à la carte portion of roast pork is a thicker chunky cut, similar to what’s served in posh Chinese restaurants. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Every day, there’s a variety of chicken (boiled and roasted), roast pork and char siu. Roast goose is also available by order.  

Even though they open early in the morning, swing by around 11am to catch the roasted meats hot from the oven. 

To put prices in perspective: a plate of rice paired with a roasted or boiled chicken wing can cost as low as RM5, while the usual single pairing of char siu or roast pork with rice will set you back RM9.50. 

Double meat combinations range from RM9.50 to RM11, depending on the chicken part.

The ultimate platter is the triple combination of roasted chicken drumstick, char siu and roast pork that can cost up to RM15.

When curating these sets, eateries usually pick the choice cuts for the roasted meats ordered à la carte rather than for these rice combinations. 

Roast pork has a crispy skin like a prawn cracker (left). Chilli crisp is served with the noodles, which are super spicy (right). — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi

To my surprise, this combination was superb: juicy chicken with a fragrant skin, a decent-sized cut of tender char siu with just a thin, not too sweet crust and even the roast pork lived up to its promised “prawn cracker” crispiness. 

Of course, the roast pork is not cut as thickly as the à la carte strip of roast pork (RM20). 

Those thick, square-looking pieces of roast pork reminded me of the trim cuts usually served in a proper restaurant even though they probably didn’t have time to place them perfectly during the lunch rush. 

A word also about their rice: it looks plain but has a very light flavour and the plump, separate grains were the perfect backdrop for the superb roast meats.  

The chilli sauce is decent, but with such well-prepared meats, you should relish their flavour rather than burn your tongue with spiciness. 

Springy HK style bamboo noodles is served with ‘char siu’ and a bowl of wontons. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Noodle lovers can opt for their Hong Kong style bamboo noodles with thin, springy strands. 

Char siu wonton noodles (RM9.50) is the best choice as it comes with their coveted wontons.

You will notice how big these wontons are; they hide juicy prawns and just a smidgeon of minced pork, making each bite satisfying.

Their noodles arrive swimming in a pool of sauce — it looks like they are drowning — but once you mix it all up, the sauce perfectly coats the thin strands. 

The sauce is darker and has a stronger taste of lard, making it a dish that will satisfy those seeking deeper flavours. 

It also comes with a chili crisp that has a lingering heat, hitting the back of your tongue with its spiciness. 

‘Wontons’ are superb with whole prawns and minced pork. — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi

The char siu is cut into thin slices, with a half fat and half meat cut (pun fei sau). 

I found the top of the meat tender, but the bottom part was definitely harder to bite through, taking away from the enjoyment of the roast meat. 

It’s a complete opposite of the char siu I had with my platter, which was juicy and beautifully charred. 

Perhaps it’s best to enjoy it with the rice combination instead, right when it emerges from the oven. 

The place gets crowded during lunch time but service is efficient. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

The eatery gets crowded during lunchtime, but the food and service are efficient.

On the storyboard plastered on the inside wall, the eatery is also known as Nan Yang Chicken Rice, which is what many people refer to their other outlet in Setapak Indah. 

The older restaurant also features the name, Gao Lao Hwa, which uses a different spelling but the same colours, and just like this one it has a wide fanbase for its roasted meats. 

It may just be a roadside stall but this place definitely deserves multiple visits for their roast meats. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Restoran Gao Lao Wah

4, Jalan Burung Berbarau, 

Taman Bukit Maluri, 

Kepong, Kuala Lumpur.

Open: 6:30am to 3pm Closed on Monday. 

Tel: 012-3228897

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.